Good Morning, Vietnam!

Whilst many backpackers to South-East Asia tend to avoid Vietnam, the rewards for those that do visit are abundant, argues Tom Haines-Doran.
Hanoi, political capital of Vietnam, is one of the most vibrant and absorbing cities on the planet; one of those cities where the past does not seem out of place with the present and a mixture of cultures and influences creates something greater than the sum of its parts.

History
Much of Vietnam’s fascinating past permeates the city’s cultural life, reflected in architecture, art and food. This history is one of imperialist occupation and resistance to it. The first invaders were the Chinese, who stayed for over 1000 years, and their influence can be seen in the ancient buildings of the Old Quarter.
Next were the French, who built much of the newer parts of the city in a classic Parisian style of wide boulevards and ornate buildings. The Long Bien Bridge is impressive not just because of its architectural achievements but also because it still stands today. During the United States’ brutal war against Vietnam the bridge was bombed repeatedly by US planes (as it was a major supply route), only for it to be rebuilt by the Vietnamese each time.
Given that two million Vietnamese died during the French occupation and three million during the war with the US, one might expect to experience an anti-western attitude when visiting the country. On the contrary, the Vietnamese are some of the friendliest and most welcoming people on the planet. Their shared history of resisting occupation lends to their character self-assurance and pride that never spills over into aggression or hostility.

Exploring the City
The best way to explore Hanoi is on foot or by renting a bike. Most of the outstanding sites of the city are centred on the Old Quarter. Making your way through the busy narrow streets you will encounter numerous food stalls where exquisite traditional Vietnamese food is served fresh to order for less than US$1 a meal. Each stall specialises in a different dish, meaning that the owners are expert in their trade, having perfected their ingredients and technique over the years. Many streets are dedicated to different crafts; for example there is one road that contains numerous gravestone-engraving workshops, another where you can purchase electronic goods, and another that sells furniture.
Moving further along you will notice locals and tourists squatting on tiny plastic stalls clutching large glasses of beer. These are Bia Hoi’s, which sell probably the cheapest and some of the best beer in the world. For two or three pence you can get yourself half a litre of frothy cool beer brewed without preservatives, made from a recipe borrowed from Czech immigrants. This is a great way to meet locals and tourists alike. If you are travelling alone raise your glass and say ‘tram phan tram’, which is the local equivalent to ‘cheers’, and you’ll make friends in no time.
US $10 and a two-hour bus ride will take you to the UNESCO-protected World Heritage Site Halong Bay. It is a wondrous place consisting of thousands of limestone rock islands set into a turquoise sea. Grottoes and caves have been dug into the islands through the forces of nature, giving each island a unique character. Deals may be arranged at your hostel that include a bus to the area and a two-night boat trip around the island. When gazing over this expanse I found it hard to compare it to anywhere else I had been before. Once you get away from the crowds of tourist boats it is easy to imagine that you are on another planet.

Getting to Hanoi

Probably the easiest way to arrange flights to Hanoi is though agencies such as STA Travel or Flightbookers. They tend to be in the region of £600-700 return depending on the season, although cheaper fares may be available with one of the Middle-Eastern airlines, such as Air Qatar, which would require a change of planes. Even cheaper may be to arrange a discount flight to Bangkok and to take an Air Asia flight (South-East Asia’s answer to Ryanair) from there.