Orkney, a short ferry ride from Scotland’s North Coast and further north than John O’Groats, may seem like an unlikely destination for a short break, but it is well worth the effort of getting there.
People have lived in the Orkney Islands since 4000 BC when stone-age settlers constructed villages on the barren land. One such settlement, Skara Brae, survives today and is one of the finest examples of a stone-age dwelling that has survived in Europe. This is thanks to the fact that it was constructed into underground rooms connected by tunnels, with each room serving a different purpose to the community.
Visitors will usually arrive by ferry to Stromness, on the west side of Orkney mainland, or Kirkwall (the capital) on the east. Kirkwall is an interesting medium-sized town that houses the magnificent and medieval St Magnus Cathedral. But Stromness is a much nicer place to spend a couple of nights. Nestled behind a rocky outcrop and overlooking the expansive beauty of Scapa Flow, it is a charming nineteenth Century village, complete with sandstone jetties and small slate-topped houses.
The central part of Orkney’s mainland consists of shimmering lochs and ancient monuments. Sitting next to lochs of Stenness and Harry is the Neolithic Ring of Brodgar, a massive and dramatic stone circle, and Maes Howe, an ancient burial chamber. Both are well worth a visit. In this desolate landscape it’s easy to get the feeling of being somewhere completely timeless, where people’s lives have been dictated by the will of the sea and the air.
No trip to Orkney would be complete without an outing to the southeast of the island, where the best views of Scapa Flow are possible. It was here that in both World Wars the British Navy stationed their fleet. It is a vast area of water that makes up of the largest natural harbours in the world as it is surrounded by Orkney mainland and the Southern Orkney Islands. On a sunny day it has to be one of the most inspiring sights in the UK, as one can take in many miles of scenery with very little noise or buildings to detract from the picture.
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